Pola Museum of Art, Japan
A Modern Art Museum Hidden in a National Park in Hakone, Japan
I visited the Pola Museum of Art in Hakone at the end of the summer season 2024. This was also amid news of Typhoon Shanshan. At the time when I was in Hakone, the typhoon was about to reach the southern part of Japan. It was already drizzling in Hakone then.
I heard about it many years ago but never got the chance to visit. It is well known for its small but good collection of Western modern art. The permanent collection ranges from Monet’s Impressionism paintings to Richter’s abstract painting.
A Glass Sculpture in the Forest, Serene Yet Full of Small Surprises.
The museum's building is pretty hidden, surrounded by tall trees and foliage. It is only accessible via one road and only by car or bus.
The museum is designed by architect Nikken Sekkei. The structure itself is low. It is designed to be at the same level as the nature around it. It felt very grounded and blended well with the natural surroundings. The glass facade feels like a large glass sculpture hidden in the forest. It is harmonious and not disruptive despite the contrast between the rigid, clear glass and soft greenery.
The pathway leading to the museum entrance feels like entering a forest. Along this path, visitors can look around and discover small surprises. Halfway through, visitors are greeted by a small bronze sculpture in the middle of the path. The door to the museum is a large wooden door, quite a contrast to the glass walls that form the facade.
Upon entering the museum, visitors are greeted by a bronze sculpture of a "Lady With a Straw Hat", a simple, modest sculpture, but very strategically placed. The lady with the hat is also facing the entrance door, as if greeting each visitor who passed through the door. Mounted on a clear pedestal, the sculpture looks like it is floating with the foliage behind it.
Visitors are then led downstairs to the main lobby area and galleries. The lobby and galleries are actually underground. Most of the lighting in the lobby and public areas is natural thanks to the glass roof. I can imagine the overall ambiance of the museum changing based on the seasons and time of day because of this.
Personal Highlight: A Modigliani Painting
The first highlight for me is a portrait by Amedeo Modigliani, an Italian painter and sculptor. There were 3 portraits by this artist displayed on the same wall but this one is my favourite during the visit. Coincidentally this is the only one where Modigliani had painted the eyes of the subject.
While Modigliani is famous for his nude portraits, he is also well known for not painting the eyes on his portraits unless he was close to the subject.
“.. I will paint your eyes when I find your soul.”
The other 2 paintings, whereby the eyes of the subjects were not painted, gave a sense of defiance and coldness. On the other hand, this painting, with the eyes drawn, drew me in. There is something melancholic about it. The subject looked sad and not pretentious, as if that was just who and how the subject happened to be at that moment.
It is also possible that the setting of the room helps create this ambiance: gloomy dark blue walls and very dim lighting, making each art piece stand out even more.
An Exercise in Being Present at a Nature+Art Trail
The other main highlight for me is the museum’s Art+Nature Trail. The weather was gloomy, with overcast sky and a slight drizzle on that day so I was worried that the museum’s nature trail would be closed. Fortunately, it was opened!
As visitors walk through the nature path, they will see the museum’s garden filled with both tall trees and smaller, shorter plants. Among these plants and tree trunks are sculptures that are strategically placed. These sculptures seemed to coexist with the natural elements in this space. Some sculptures are the size of grass or small bushes, so visitors must pay attention to appreciate this experience fully.
The sight of the nature trail trinkled with the museum’s translucent white umbrellas was also quite beautiful. The sound of the rain droplets is calming while the overcast sky and lack of sunlight made everything feel more saturated visually which is a treat. The ambiance is calm and meditative. Overall it was a fun exercise of being present, being in that time and space.
